MOT BASICS
This
guide applies to all motorcycles and sidecar combinations, they are classed as
follows:
Class
I – Bikes or combinations up to 200 cc.
Class
II – All bikes or combinations (including class I bikes).
This
guide does not apply to trikes or quads. Combinations have to have a clearly visible
sidecar part and the bike should be capable of being ridden without the sidecar
attached.
The
test fee, as of July 2007, is £27.15, but this is of course subject to change
without notice.
The
tester is not allowed to strip or dismantle the bike except for panels and
covers designed to be removed without tools. They can also peel back fork gaiters
where necessary. The tester has to put all the panels, covers and gaiters back
as they found them.
The
tester can refuse to carry out the test if:
·
The bike is too dirty.
·
The V5 is not produced and the registered ‘first used’ date
can not be ascertained.
·
The bike emits excessive smoke.
·
The bike is unfit to be ridden (if necessary) e.g. lack of
petrol.
·
The bike is in such condition that to carry out the test
would be potentially dangerous.
·
The bike is carrying an insecure load.
·
The MOT fee is not paid in advance.
·
Access to certain parts cannot be achieved, e.g. no key for
a locked fuel cap or locked seat to allow for a proper inspection.
·
The bike has no unique identifier or none of its identifiers
are written using standard English number or letters.
·
The bike has ‘Not for road use’ or similar stamped on the
frame.
If
the tester refuses to carry out the test for the above reasons you should get
the test fee refunded.
The
tester should advise you if any of the bikes components are close to the point
of test failure and if any other non-testable components are defective.
Sometimes
you will be asked to assist the tester during the test. They should only ask
you to do simple things like operate the light switches etc.
Bikes
registered with ‘Q’ number plates are treated as being ‘first used’ on
01/01/1971 for testing purposes. If the ‘first used’ date cannot be ascertained
normally it will be assumed as the date of manufacture for ex-military bikes or
imported bikes. In other cases the earlier of either ‘the date of registration’
or ‘six months after it was manufactured’.
If
your bike is fitted with special ‘disabled rider’ controls they will be tested
in the normal way and be subject to the same rules. If however they are
additional to the standard controls they will not be tested.
VOSA
have a non compulsory but preferred order for the test as follows:
1.
Check for reasons to refuse to test.
2.
Sitting on the bike check:
a.
The controls, switches and horn
b.
The front suspension
c.
The headstock bearings
d.
The handle bars
3.
At the front check:
a.
The front lights
b.
The indicators
c.
The front master cylinder
4.
With the front wheel raised (use the centre stand where
possible) check:
a.
The steering
b.
The front forks
c.
The front brake
d.
The front tyre
e.
The top headstock bearing
f.
The front wheel and bearings
5.
On the right of the bike check:
a.
The frame
b.
The seat(s)
c.
The transmission (if fitted on the right)
d.
The rear wheel/brake
e.
The foot rest(s)
f.
The exhaust system (if fitted to the right)
6.
With the rear wheel raised (use the centre stand where
possible) check:
a.
The rear wheel
b.
The rear tyre
c.
The rear brake
d.
The rear suspension
e.
The transmission
7.
Still at the rear (but with the wheel back on the ground)
check:
a.
Rear light(s)
b.
Brake light(s)
c.
Reflector
d.
Indicators
e.
Rear suspension
8.
On the left of the bike check:
a.
The frame
b.
The rear suspension
c.
The exhaust system (if fitted to the left)
d.
The rear wheel/brake
e.
The foot rest(s)
f.
The transmission (if fitted to the left)
g.
The rear tyre
9.
At the front again check:
a.
Wheel alignment
b.
Headlight aim
c.
Brake performance
STEERING AND
SUSPENSION
Front
Forks
Your
bike will fail if:
·
Any fork seal has failed.
·
The forks have inadequate damping effect.
·
Any visible spring is cracked, damaged, incomplete,
seriously weakened by corrosion or wear or has been repaired by welding.
·
The front mudguard could easily touch a fixed part of the
bike or the front wheel.
·
There is excessive play in the front suspension.
·
Any suspension component is too damaged, corroded, out of
line or bent.
·
The fork action is too stiff.
·
Any fork brace is not securely mounted.
·
A load bearing component has been modified so that its
original strength has been seriously reduced.
Notes:
·
The tester can move rubber gaiters out of the way to assess
the condition of the forks as long as they put them back.
·
The stanchions can be pitted but must not have damaged the
fork seal, however, a light misting of damping oil is OK.
·
Certain smaller bikes do not have any damping in their forks.
·
Any mudguards that brace the front forks must be securely
fitted.
·
If the bike has an anti-dive mechanism then the front
suspension should be bounced with the front tyre against a wall as opposed to
the front brake being on as this usually activates the anti-dive mechanism and
interferes with the damping rates.
Rear
Suspension
Your
bike will fail if:
·
Any damper seal has failed.
·
Any visible spring is cracked, damaged, incomplete,
seriously weakened by corrosion or wear or has been repaired by welding.
·
There is too much free play or wear in any of the rear
suspension bushes, bearings or linkages.
·
Any of the rear suspension components are seized.
·
A load bearing component has been modified so that its
original strength has been seriously reduced.
·
The dampers have inadequate damping effect.
·
Any suspension component is too damaged, corroded, out of
line or bent.
·
There is an obstruction preventing the suspension moving
normally.
·
The rear suspension action is too stiff.
Notes:
·
Rear suspension is not necessary on a bike e.g. a hard tail
chopper.
·
Some smaller bikes have limited damping in the rear
suspension.
·
The tester can remove the seat and/or side panels to check
the rear suspension if necessary.
·
If your bike has two rear shock absorbers, the tester should
tell you if they are not adjusted equally.
·
Certain mono-shock linkages may have some movement at full
extension.
Headstock
Bearings
Your
bike will fail if:
·
The headstock is incorrectly adjusted or excessively worn allowing
for free play between the headstock and the frame.
·
Either bearing is worn to the point where its operation is
rough or notchy.
·
The steering is too stiff.
Notes:
·
The tester may turn down any adjustable steering damper to
help assess the condition of the headstock bearings and they have to tell you
if they do.
·
The tester can take the bike for a road test if they deem it
necessary.
·
The tester will raise the front wheel off the ground to test
the top headstock bearing and with front wheel on the ground (or on a special
turning plate) to test the bottom head stock bearing.
Steering
Control
Your
bike will fail if:
·
Either of the handlebar grips is missing or not secure, e.g.
it twists on the bar.
·
With the bike on full lock there isn’t enough clearance to
hold the handlebar grips or use the controls properly.
·
Any part of the steering fouls on a fixed part as it is
moved (excepting the lock stops).
·
The handlebars or clamps have a loose/missing bolt or are
not tight.
·
The yokes or handlebars are excessively damaged or corroded.
·
Any rubber mounting is excessively perished or damaged.
·
Any of the cables or hoses are pulled taut or trapped
interfering with the free movement of the steering.
·
There is a significant increase in the engine tick-over
speed when the steering is turned from lock to lock.
·
Any steering damper is in such condition that the steering
is impaired
Notes:
·
If your bike has rubber mounted handlebars then they may
move a little when you apply pressure.
·
The tester may adjust any steering damper to help assess the
steering and they have to tell you if they do.
·
The tester can take the bike for a road test if they deem it
necessary.
·
Modified steering geometry is not a necessarily a reason for
rejection as long as any modification still meets the MOT requirements.
WHEELS
AND TYRES
Tyres
Your
bike will fail if:
·
Either tyre is unsuitable for road use.
·
Either tyre rotates in the wrong direction.
·
Either tyre is incorrectly seated on the rim.
·
Either tyre has a cut longer than 25mm or 10% of the tyres
sectional width (whichever is the greater) and deep enough to reach the reinforcement.
·
Either tyre has any bulges or lumps caused by failure of the
tyres structure.
·
Either tyre has any exposed reinforcement.
·
Either tyre has a valve that is damaged or out of line and
might cause the tyre to suddenly deflate.
·
Either tyre rubs against any fixed part of the bike when it
is rotated.
·
The tread on either tyre cannot be clearly seen over the
entire tread area.
·
The tread on either tyre has been re-cut.
·
The tread on either tyre has de-laminated.
·
The tread depth on either tyre is not at least 1mm over
continuous patch, ¾ of the width of the tread area in a continuous band around
the tyre (see diagram).
Notes:
·
‘Tread area’ means any part of the tyre that touches the
road during normal use.
·
The tread pattern on some tyres does not cover ¾ of the
tyres width. If this is the case they must have at least 1mm over the entire
tread area.
·
Any Tread Wear Indicators (sometimes marked on the sidewall
as TWI) are not included in the test.
·
Tyres classed as ‘unsuitable for road use’ are described as
follows:
o
Any tyre with the words ‘Race use only’, ‘Not for road use’
or similar
o
Car tyres or Side care tyres (unless on a side car).
o
Motocross tyres that don’t have the letters MST (Multi
Service Tyre) and an ‘E’ mark.
o
Where cross-ply and radial tyres are mixed on the same bike.
o
Any tyre designed for the front wheel fitted to the rear.
·
Spare tyres are not inspected but the tester should draw
your attention to any defect if they spot one.
·
The tester should advise you if they spot any loose or
missing tyre security nuts or bolts.
·
The tester might advise you if they spot any tyre repairs.
·
The tester shouldn’t fail the bike for having ‘seriously
under-inflated’ tyres but they can refuse to carry out the brake test if they
think it will damage the tyre. They can also refuse to carry out the headlight
aim test if they think that will be affected too.
·
Some radial tyres might have undulations from the
manufacturing process and the tester should distinguish between those and the
ones caused by structural failure.
·
Mopeds can have less than 1mm tread depth as long as all the
tread is clearly visible over the entire tread area.
Wheels
Bearings and Axles
Your
bike will fail if:
·
Either wheel bearing is excessively rough, tight or has
excessive free play.
·
Either wheel axle is insecure or has a loose or missing
locking device.
Notes:
·
Both wheel axles need a locking device. This is usually
achieved either by clamping the axle or by using a locking nut of some kind.
Wheels
Rims
Your
bike will fail if:
·
Either wheel rubs against a fixed part of the bike.
·
Any alloy wheel has more than 2mm or lateral distortion
(measured from a machined surface e.g. the edge of the rim).
·
Any steel wheel has more than 4mm of lateral distortion.
·
Any wheel has more than 3mm of eccentric distortion.
·
Any spokes are excessively bent, loose or corroded.
·
Any spokes are cracked (pay particular attention to
stainless ones) or missing.
·
In ‘built-up’ wheels (e.g. Honda’s Comstar) there are any
missing or loose rivets or bolts.
·
Either wheel has excessive damage, corrosion or an
inadequate repair or modification which significantly reduces its strength.
Notes:
·
Spare wheels aren’t included in the test but the tester
should advise you if they find a fault.
Wheel
Alignment
Your
bike will fail if:
·
The front and rear wheel are sufficiently out of line to
adversely affect the handling of the bike (see diagram).
Notes:
·
Some bikes with shaft drive (and/or sidecars) may be
designed with small offsets between the front and rear wheels.
·
The tester can road test the bike to determine if any
misalignment will pass or fail the test.
BRAKES
General
Your
bike will fail if:
·
Its brakes don’t comply with the age related rules (see
notes).
·
Either of its brake levers are excessively damaged, bent,
shortened or badly positioned so that the brake cannot be easily applied.
·
Either of its brake levers or mountings are insecure,
fractured or have lose or missing bolts.
·
Either of its brake levers have excessively worn pivots or
cannot be operated smoothly.
·
There is not adequate reserve travel, e.g. the front brake
lever comes back to the bar.
·
After two pumps the lever creeps (e.g. back to the bar) and
a sustained brake pressure cannot be held.
·
There is air in the brake system causing excessive
sponginess.
·
The brake systems have been excessively damaged, modified or
have corroded to a point where their strength has been seriously reduced.
·
Any brake cable is excessively frayed or corroded or any
outer casing is excessively damaged.
Notes:
·
Bikes registered before 01/01/1927 must have a brake that
works on at least one wheel.
·
Bikes registered after 01/01/1927 must have an efficient brake with two means of operation or two brakes with separate means of
operations.
·
There are no set rules to the exact mounting position of
brake levers as long as they can be easily applied by the rider.
·
ABS systems are not part of the test but the tester should
inform you if they find any problems.
·
Any tyre which is seriously under inflated is grounds not to
conduct a brake test and therefore effectively fail the MOT.
Brake
Disks
Your
bike will fail if:
·
There is excessive wear, damage, scoring or cracking that
seriously reduces the strength of any disk.
·
Any disk is excessively distorted.
·
Any disk has a missing or insecure mounting bolt.
·